Lotor Lessons - What I'd do differently
If I knew then what I know now, here's how I'd do this project differently.
1) 4 mm and 10 mm EVA foam for all armor pieces. I don't have an electric sander or the elbow grease to remove the patterning from floormats.
2) Don't use Worbla on full cylinders. If you want a slide-on piece, eva foam is the way to go.
3) Use sandpaper, not the dremel first.
4) Find the right bit on the dremel to drill holes. There is one. The Drill was too much.
5) Make the buck out of polymer clay. Also the thinner EVA is easier to heat treat.
6) Don't serge on one of the most expensive parts of the costume. At least Baste first.
7) Paneling is really the best way to handle the whole top leotard. Black from neck to leg line. Grey from neck to crotch. You could wrap craft foam in the same color spandex and glue them to the chest armor for ears. Alternatively Use small triangles with heat and bond. Orange spandex for the sleeve isn't a bad idea either. It just needs careful planning. OR bias tape.
8) Don't put masking tape on PlastiDip. It will rip right off. :P Also don't spray plastidip so close...it's bubbly.
9) Using Hexflex paint was a lot easier and smoother than plastidip. Also a good consideration for sealing or painting eva.
10) It seems like a lace-front wig wasn't 100% necessary. Turns out with a bit of felting and weft gluing and cutting, you can make a fake hair-line, even with a dangling bang. (The lace front does look rad though.)
11) Boot covers may have saved my poor thumbnail. It's almost healed. :) Also craft foam may have been a better medium than EVA foam for the shoe. The floormat was good for the sole. :P
* In my costume updates, I did make boot covers and craft foam armor. It works much better.
12) EVA foam may have been better for the shoulder pads too. I know I seem like I'm in love with this stuff but really, making a pauldron would give it stability against spandex and been flexible enough to wear.
13) Glad I switched to spandex for the belt and thigh armor. It lays much better.
1) 4 mm and 10 mm EVA foam for all armor pieces. I don't have an electric sander or the elbow grease to remove the patterning from floormats.
2) Don't use Worbla on full cylinders. If you want a slide-on piece, eva foam is the way to go.
3) Use sandpaper, not the dremel first.
4) Find the right bit on the dremel to drill holes. There is one. The Drill was too much.
5) Make the buck out of polymer clay. Also the thinner EVA is easier to heat treat.
6) Don't serge on one of the most expensive parts of the costume. At least Baste first.
7) Paneling is really the best way to handle the whole top leotard. Black from neck to leg line. Grey from neck to crotch. You could wrap craft foam in the same color spandex and glue them to the chest armor for ears. Alternatively Use small triangles with heat and bond. Orange spandex for the sleeve isn't a bad idea either. It just needs careful planning. OR bias tape.
8) Don't put masking tape on PlastiDip. It will rip right off. :P Also don't spray plastidip so close...it's bubbly.
9) Using Hexflex paint was a lot easier and smoother than plastidip. Also a good consideration for sealing or painting eva.
10) It seems like a lace-front wig wasn't 100% necessary. Turns out with a bit of felting and weft gluing and cutting, you can make a fake hair-line, even with a dangling bang. (The lace front does look rad though.)
11) Boot covers may have saved my poor thumbnail. It's almost healed. :) Also craft foam may have been a better medium than EVA foam for the shoe. The floormat was good for the sole. :P
* In my costume updates, I did make boot covers and craft foam armor. It works much better.
12) EVA foam may have been better for the shoulder pads too. I know I seem like I'm in love with this stuff but really, making a pauldron would give it stability against spandex and been flexible enough to wear.
13) Glad I switched to spandex for the belt and thigh armor. It lays much better.
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